13′ FLSTFB conversion to CVO 110!

I’ve waited all summer long for today and “finally” the time has arrived to begin the transformation of my 2013 Harley Davidson Fatboy Lo!

The bike came factory stock with a 103 cubic inch engine. I have found that over the past 17,000 miles, mostly “two-up”, that I’d like to add some extra horsepower and torque to the bike. So this past summer, I purchased the “Harley Davidson Screamin’ Eagle Bolt-On 110 Cubic Inch Street Performance Kit”. This will bring the bike up to the same displacement and power output as the CVO Screamin’ Eagle models.

The weather has finally begun to turn cool (after a fantastic October riding month) so now is the time to begin. I’ll be posting pictures of the complete tear-down and rebuild along the way and posting comments as I go. I’ll also add an occasional video of the progress as well.

A lot of planning went into this conversion. Working actively as an ASE Certified Master Automotive Repair Technician, I thought it best to invest in some specialty tools and 1st on my list was a motorcycle lift. A recommendation from a co-worker (whom currently owns one) and having visited his garage to see it in action, I took the advice and purchased a Derek Weaver lift. Let me state that having a lift to perform this conversion is not a necessity as much as a nicety. The lift I use is model TX-1000-XLT and is phenomenal. Removable side panels and a rear tire drop out makes this a fully functional and stout lift. I modified the lift slightly by not utilizing their front tire locking mechanism and immediately mounted a Condor SC-2000 Trailer Only Chock in place of it. Drive on/off without using tie-downs or Jiffy stand necessary. Any specialty tools I’ll tell you about as the project progresses. Lets get started.

Day one consisted of removing the Windshield, Seat and Rear Fender Bib. Then we disconnected the battery and removed it from it’s cradle.

The fuel tank “Instrument Panel” gets removed next followed by the tank itself. Nothing difficult or tricky about this as it’s pretty straight forward and simple to perform. The cross-over tube that runs under the frame is held on with band clamps and can easily be removed and discarded. A worm clamp can be used as a suitable replacement when going back together. I then drained the tank. If leaving fuel in the tank and this project is going to take more than a weekend to perform, I would recommend a fuel stabilizer added to the fuel.

Now the Vance & Hines exhaust system will be removed. We’ll start at the rear pipe by removing it’s associated heat shiel which is held on by worm clams. A simple 8mm nut driver will easily do the trick. Then remove the oxygen sensor. And finally the pipe itself from the bracket on the frame and the two manifold studs. Repeat, in order, the front pipe.

From the left side of the bike, I’ll remove the horn assembly and ignition wires.

We removed air cleaner and unplugged MAP, IAT, TPS, both ACR solenoids & IAC. Throttle cables loosened and removed from Intake Module. Depress the quick clip on the fuel line and remove the line.

The following series of photos shows the removed IAC Motor & Throttle Cable Bracket, unplugging the Injector electrical connectors and finally removing the Intake Module.

To follow my progress continue to removing the Rocker Arm Support Plate.

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